So, you’ve decided. After carefully considering the wide world of floor coverings,
and shopping smart, you’ve chosen laminate as the flooring solution for the
way you live.
Whew, you’re home free, right?
Wrong. Don’t forget the next critical step: preparing for installation.
It will make the whole process easier, faster and hopefully eliminate that dreaded
phrase “If only I’d thought of…”
Being prepared will be a lot less stressful on you -- and your home.
So check out the following, be prepared and anticipate, then look forward with confidence
to the day your new laminate flooring arrives.
Our first advice is: eliminate laminate DIY.
While easier to install than other types of flooring, it is nonetheless still difficult
work, labor intensive and extremely exacting.
We strongly recommend you call upon a reliable, seasoned, dedicated professional
to install your laminate floor.
That way you can be assured of a beautiful, efficient and correct installation.
Which is precisely what our goal is for you.
However, while installing laminate flooring is a skill that is developed through
training and experience, your understanding of the basics of installation will increase
your knowledge of the process and enhance your confidence in the professionals working
in your home.
So please allow us to cover some of the basics with you.
Many makers, one method.
Today there are many manufacturers producing laminate flooring products.
Most manufacturers have their own specific installation guidelines; however the
overall process is the same. Understand this one and you’re done.
Laminate floors use what is known as a “floating floor” installation;
which means, the planks simply lay on top of the floor without being adhered to
the subfloor and are only adhered to each other on the edges.
Side seams are either glued together or joined using a “glueless” installation
where the planks tightly interlock together. Both installations are considered floating
floors.
First, the imperfection inspection.
The first step an installer takes when installing a laminate floor is to closely
inspect your subfloor for any imperfections. Lots of crawling around on hands and
knees here.
While no floor is perfectly level, the subfloor should be checked for any noticeable
gaps or ridges that could cause problems.
Your floor is then cleaned. The installers will also make sure that the laminate
planks or tiles have had sufficient time to acclimate to their new surroundings.
Probably by delivering them days ahead of installation.
Next, understanding underlayment.
The installers now put down an underlayment directly over your subfloor.
This underlayment allows the floor to expand and contract with changes in temperature
and also acts as a sound and moisture barrier. Both good ideas.
In some installations, there are two underlayment layers. Why, you may ask?
The first layer is installed to specifically act as a moisture barrier while the
second layer provides a sound barrier and enhances your flooring’s performance.
The underlayment is typically rolled out and taped together at the seams.
Installers will cut the pieces of underlayment where needed with a precision utility
knife to make a perfect fit.
Now the planks can be laid.
Installers will typically begin in the left corner of the area and leave a minimum
¼" space between the flooring and the perimeter walls.
This is done because the laminate requires space around the edges of the room to
expand or contract.
Without that “breathing room” your floor will express its discontent.
If the floor is touching or too close to a wall, it can buckle in the middle.
Along the wall, the installers use spacers as they work, to ensure the accuracy
of this perimeter space.
They use one spacer for each square foot. Once your floor is fully installed they
remove the spacers and cover the perimeter gap with quarter round trim or a wall
base.
As the installers lay the planks in the desired pattern, they will carefully measure
and precisely cut the planks to fit.
Clueless about glueless? Read on shopper.
As mentioned earlier, many laminates today don’t require glue for the installation.
These glueless products have significantly impacted the laminate flooring industry
and there are several reasons why the glueless laminates are so popular.
Most importantly, they are easy to install. The installer simply puts down an underlayment
and the planks of laminate interlock to each other one at a time.
If something goes wrong during installation, your floor can be dismantled plank
by plank and re-built.
If one of the panels gets damaged after installation, your entire floor can be removed,
the damaged plank replaced, and the floor can be put back together again plank by
plank. Presto, like magic the damage disappears!
Some installers stick with glue.
For floors that require glue on the sides of the planks, the installers begin by
gluing the first two planks in the first row together.
Again, they start in the left-hand corner and glue the first row together at the
ends.
As they glue each plank or tile they apply clamps or use straps to hold the pieces
together.
Although planks usually fit together easily, installers will sometimes use a tapping
block while fitting the boards together.
For installations that use glue, once the floor is completed and the glue is dry,
installers then remove the spacers.
The final touch.
To finish your floor, the installers add molding to cover the perimeter gap and
install any additional transition trim pieces needed in doorways or where the laminate
meets a different type of flooring.
Custom finished moldings and trim will give your laminate flooring a beautiful,
finished look. They are all coordinated to match or accentuate the design of your
floor. It’s all part of a professional installation.
For your information, here are some finishing terms and definitions.
Reducer Strip is used to create a smooth transition between two floors
of different heights, as well as protect the planks exposed edge from damage caused
by foot traffic.
Overlapping Stair Nosing is similar to a flush stair nosing except the
nosing overlaps the exposed edge of your floor.
The overlapping stair nosing is secured to the sub floor and not to the laminate
floor so the floor is free to move. Recall the “floating floor” idea
we mentioned earlier in this section.
T-Molding are used to bridge two areas of flooring that are the exact same
height.
The T-Molding overlaps the exposed edges of the floor and is secured only to the
sub floor, never to the flooring itself.
Generally this trim is used as the transition piece between rooms, or as the expansion
piece for areas that exceed 30 feet in length.
Universal Edge is also called a Square Nosing and is used where
the laminate flooring butts up to carpeting, or various vertical surfaces where
the edge will be exposed, such as along a fireplace.
Quarter Round gives the floor a finished look and protects the edges of
your laminate flooring.
The result is a beautiful, professionally installed laminate floor. Your floor.
What to do before the day of installation
Begin prepping with your big three: furniture, appliances and toilets.
Remove all your furniture and other objects and materials from the areas where the
installation will take place.
Some installers will move your furniture, but there may be an additional charge
for doing so. Before moving, you’ll also need to empty the contents of china
cabinets, closets, refrigerators and the like. And yes, it’s a hassle.
You should check with your retailer regarding the disconnection and removal of appliances.
Some installers may disconnect and move your electrical appliances and furniture
for an additional charge.
But prior arrangements should be made with your salesperson. For your safety, and
that of your family, we recommend that the gas company or appliance company disconnect
and reconnect all gas appliances.
Ask your retailer about the possibility and cost of disconnecting and reconnecting
such items as icemakers, stereo equipment and computers; and the removal of heavy
items like pianos.
Also, consult with your retailer to determine if there is a charge for the removal
and replacement of toilets in bathrooms if that is necessary.
Be aware that the area of installation must be climate controlled (heated or air
conditioned). Indoor humidity should be maintained between 45-65%
Out with the old – remove your present floor covering.
Please consider how your old floor covering will be taken up and disposed of. This
can be a time consuming task. We recommend that you check with your retailer about
the cost and the method of disposal. So there are no surprises for you.
If you prefer to remove your present floor covering, do it at least one day prior
to arrival of your laminate product to allow for cleanup and floor preparation.
If removing old carpet, please remove all materials, the tackless and the pad, including
staples.
Don’t be left out on a limb about your trim.
You should know that, in many cases, moldings and baseboards need to be removed
for laminate installation. Your installer may do this but at an additional charge
and they will probably not be responsible for damage or breakage due to dry or brittle
wood.
Painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching after the installation
is complete. If necessary, this is your responsibility.
There’s no substitute for subflooring.
Your existing subfloor may need to be prepared to receive the laminate flooring,
or a new subfloor may be required. We suggest you discuss this with your retailer
and, if subfloor work is necessary, that it be done by qualified professionals.
It is important that the subfloor be as clean and level as possible. That helps
insure your new laminate flooring will be as beautiful and well supported as possible.
Do this to insure an open door policy.
When laminate flooring is installed, there’s always the possibility that the
doors, especially closet doors, basement and bedroom doors, may not clear the new
laminate and swing free.
Some installers will remove doors in order to install the laminate and re-hang them
if possible. They probably won’t shave or cut down doors to insure clearance.
You should check with your retailer/installer as to their policy and the cost. You
may need to arrange for a qualified carpenter to provide this service after the
installation of your new laminate floor.
Check-up on the clean-up.
Installing new laminate flooring will produce waste. Usually these materials are
collected by your installer and disposed of for a fee. Check with your retailer
before the day of installation so you’re clear about the clean up, if there
are added costs to do so, and ask about the plan for laminate remnants.
What to do during installation
Install yourself at home on installation day.
Be prepared to be at home the day of installation and be available in case the installation
crew has questions. Your presence will insure that the correct laminate flooring
is installed in the right areas. Because it is difficult to estimate the length
and circumstances of each job, some installers may not be able to give you an exact
time of arrival. We suggest you be flexible and keep in touch with your retailer/installer.
Your safety, first and last.
Your installers will use a variety of tools and techniques that can make the work
area hazardous. Please make sure that your children and pets are kept out of the
work area on installation day.
The walk-thru is your final step.
We recommend that, prior to the completion of the installation, you walk thru the
job with the chief installer. This will give you the opportunity to ask questions
and be clear on any final details. Your retailer and the installation crew want
you to be completely satisfied with your new laminate flooring.
What to do after installation
Give yourself breathing room.
If you are sensitive to dust and odors, good ventilation should be established for
48 to 72 hours after installation.
Prepare today for tomorrow.
When it comes to your laminate flooring installation, we want you to be as well
prepared as possible.
It will make installation day easier on you and your home and provide you with an
enjoyable floor covering experience for years to come.